Mongolians like to wear nice, richly decorated clothes which compensate the simple, ascetic nomadic lifestyle. A harsh climate and uneasy life demand attention to the smallest details of the garments. The nomads' wardrobe is compact but has many variations able to serve for different purposes.
In general, Mongolian clothes follow the principle "What I have, do bear along". Sudden changes of weather with temperatures fluctuating up to 20 degrees and sudden snow or sand storms oblige nomads to be always prepared for any situation. When a nomadic herder takes his sheep flock to pastures he carries along everything he'll need to survive. However, this does not necessarily mean big bags as riding a horse and tending animals requires freedom of movements, and clothes are designed in a such way as to allow freedom.
The universal Deel
The Deel or caftan forms the basis of almost all Mongolian clothes. Beside being the main garment, it can serve as a blanket, tent and cover against unwanted glances. Depending on weather or work needs, other garments such as a jacket or a coat can supplement the deel. A deel protects perfectly against cold and winds. When necessary, its long sleeves are rolled down to serve as gloves.
A wide sash, made of several meters of textile, serves as a corset protecting against severe shaking during a fast horse ride. The sash also serves as a belt to which a knife, firestone, cup and other accessories can be attached.
A large pocket formed by the part of the deel above the sash, makes an ideal place for keeping small items.
In the Mongolian nomadic culture special attention is given to the quality of clothes and its tidiness since a missing button, undone seam or loose knot could cost one's life during a sudden snow storm or fast horse ride.
Hats
There were over 100 types of hats, different in shape and purpose --for young and old, men and woman, fashionable and everyday hats, for summer and winter, holiday and ceremonies.
Regular hats like the louz can serve all occasions. In winter the rims can be lowered and protect against wind or cold. On warmer days the rims are rolled up and tied to the back side.
Hats are very functional, but also are the main piece of clothing. In earlier times each hat was richly embroidered with silk, velvet, ornaments, furs and even precious stones. Often long tassels and red strips streaming in the wind would make the owner look very stylish. These red streamers gave rise to the term "red tasseled Mongols". The hats embroidery and ornaments would also indicate the social status and even age of its owner.
It's advisable to keep one's hat on when entering a ger, a traditional nomadic dwelling. Etiquette forbids to greet or meet anybody bareheaded. In the old days neither man nor woman was allowed to go into the street or enter someone's house without wearing a hat. In those days it was considered to be a humiliating punishment if the zangia --a round shaped knot decoration crowning the hat-- was torn off. To step on or over the torn zangia is considered to be a insult to the owner.
Greeting another person or wishing goodwill is always done with one's hat on as a sign of respect. This traditional importance attached to headdresses is still in use today.
Shoes and boots
Mongolian boots, known as gutal, are ideal for horse riding. They are spacious and the slightly upturned noses prevent the boots from being caught in stirrups in case the rider falls off his horse. The upturned noses leave enough air space to prevent the feet from getting cold in winter. Stiff and high shafts protect the wearer when walking in Summer's high grass or Winter's deep snow.
There are different types of boots used for different seasons and purposes. Normal high heeled soft boots, called boitog, are used mostly for hunting or long walking trips. In winter a fur cover, called degtii is put over the boots. The boots' heels can be soft or hard, low or high depending on the nature of their use.
Traditional boots are usually worn with felt socks made to the boots' shape. The upper part of the socks that come out of the boots are usually embroidered with silk, leather, various ornaments and applications.
Boots are made of the skin of cattle or, in special cases, skin of such wild animals as deer, wild goat or sheep. Shoe making is a long and tedious process and traditionally a female duty.
Womens' costumes
With the strong European cultural influence over the last seven decades, the traditional Mongolian garments have become more simple and modern Mongolian women do not need the artistry of their grandmothers. A complete woman's costume can now only be seen in museums, art exhibition of grandmother's trunk.
The traditional woman's costume is very bright and lavishly decorated. Especially exotic was the married woman's hair dress resembling wild sheep horns or wings. Though there is a legend saying that this headdress is reminiscent of a woman who looks like a bird with two wings protecting the hearth, it had rather an aesthetic sense and eventually was replaced with a wig.
Mongolian women traditionally have had long hairs. To maintain and decorate their elaborate hair styles, women used many types of golden and silver hair-pins and combs and, often, precious stones.
Festive clothes look specially decorative using combinations of such contrasting colors as red and green. Over time a silk sash was changed into a leather one. A long silk or just ornamented jacket was put over the deel. On cold days a jersey was available. Women from noble families wore light capotes or coats.
A woman's costume can not go without a lavishly embroidered with gold and silver threads, corals and pearls head dress. Other jewelry accessories made of silver and precious stones were also worn. Long earrings with many details completed the head dress decorated with strips.
A full costume is not complete without a small bag with aromas, cuspidor (spittoon) and small items for treating hands and skin. Many women also used small, lavishly decorated boxes for sniff tobacco.
Girls and young women wore more modest garments than married women. Their deels were of less contrasting colors, more soft and fine. Headdresses consisted of round, cup shaped hats decorated with a red ball from which a long lace hung. Red laces combined with softly shining pearls and silver jewelry were used to attract attention of a passing man, while a long deel tightly tied on waist stressed the slender waist.
Mongolian clothes are so exotic that French artists working on the latest episodes of Star Wars could not resist adopting a full dress of a Mongolian lady for the character of Queen Amidala.
Technorati Tags : Mongolia fashion history Star Wars
Super Fashion Galore http://superfashiongalore.blogspot.com/
